They move like silent submarines, encrusted with patches of white barnacles, just below the surface of the water. Although Pacific gray whales are not as showy or playful as their cetacean cousin, the orca or killer whale, catching sight of a telltale blow or a quick flash of a gnarly back still inspires awe.

And from now until mid-May, one of the best places to spot the huge marine mammals is along the west coast of Vancouver Island, particularly in the 30-mile stretch between the scenic, touristy fishing towns of Ucluelet and Tofino, about 200 miles northwest of Victoria.

At least 20,000 grays will be gliding close to shore over the next 10 weeks, heading north from their winter calving grounds along Mexico's Baja coast to the waters of Alaska and the Bering Sea, where they feed all summer.

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